Casting Jigs
The casting jig is the all-purpose bass jig: a weighted head, a strong hook, a weed guard and a rubber skirt, finished with a soft plastic trailer. Hopped along the bottom it looks like a crawfish. Swum past cover it looks like a bluegill. It has a long-standing reputation for catching bigger bass than most lures, and if you learn one jig, this is the one.
- Skill levelIntermediate
- Best forLargemouth, spotted and smallmouth bass
- Where it shinesWood, rock, docks, grass edges
- Depth2 to 20 feet
- SeasonAll year
- SpeedSlow
What a casting jig is
Every bass jig has the same five parts. The head is the weight. The hook is molded into it. A bundle of stiff fibers, the weed guard, angles back over the hook point so the jig slides over branches and rock. The skirt hides the hook and flares when the jig stops. The trailer, a soft plastic craw or chunk, adds bulk and movement.
A casting jig has a rounded, general-purpose head. It is not the best at any one thing, and it is good at nearly everything.
What you need
| Item | Start here | Adjust |
|---|---|---|
| Jig | 3/8 oz | 1/4 oz in shallow water or for a slower fall. 1/2 oz past 10 feet or in wind |
| Trailer | 3 to 4 inch soft plastic craw | A small paddle-tail swimbait when you plan to swim it |
| Line | 15 to 17 lb fluorocarbon | 50 lb braid in grass and thick wood |
| Rod | 7 ft to 7 ft 3 in medium-heavy casting rod, fast action | Enough backbone to drive a thick hook home |
| Reel | Baitcasting reel, about 7:1 | A fast reel picks up slack quickly on the hook set |
Set it up in 3 steps
- Add the trailer. Thread it onto the hook, dead straight, and push it up until it meets the skirt.
- Check the weed guard. It should reach just past the hook point. Spread the fibers a little with your thumb so they cover the point from both sides.
- Tie it on. A Palomar knot is strong and simple. Retie whenever the line near the jig feels rough.
Which jig for which job
| Jig | Built for |
|---|---|
| Casting jig | A bit of everything. The one to start with |
| Football jig | Dragging over rock and hard bottom, usually deeper |
| Flipping jig | Dropping into thick cover at close range |
| Swim jig | Reeling steadily through grass and around docks |
| Finesse jig | Clear water, cold water and hard-fished lakes |
| Swing head jig | Reeling along a hard bottom like a crankbait |
How to fish it: three retrieves
Hop it
The standardLet it reach bottom. Lift the rod so the jig jumps a foot, then let it fall back on a slightly slack line. A crawfish moves the same way.
Drag it
Cold water, or fish that will not chasePull it slowly along the bottom with the rod, a foot at a time, and pause. Let it sit beside every rock and branch you feel.
Swim it
Active fish around coverReel it steadily a foot or two above the bottom, past dock posts and along grass edges, with a twitch of the rod now and then.
What a bite feels like
A sharp tick, a spongy weight, or the line jumping sideways. A lot of bites come as the jig falls, so watch the line every time it sinks. Then set the hook hard. Reel down until the line is tight and swing the rod up firmly. A jig has a thick hook and a weed guard to push past, and a gentle hook set does not get through.
Season by season
| Season | Where | How |
|---|---|---|
| Winter (below 50°F) | Steep rock, channel bends, deep docks | Drag it slowly with long pauses |
| Pre-spawn (50 to 60°F) | Rocky banks, points and the first wood outside spawning pockets | Short hops. One of the best times for a jig |
| Spawn (60 to 70°F) | Shallow wood, dock posts and bushes | Pitch it in quietly and let it sit |
| Post-spawn (70s) | Docks, shade and the first drops outside spawning areas | Swim it past cover, or hop it |
| Summer (80°F and up) | Shade and thick cover shallow. Brush and ledges deep | Hop it through cover with a 1/2 oz jig |
| Fall (cooling) | Rock, docks and wood in creek arms | Swim it or hop it. Bass are feeding up |
Work a 1/4 or 3/8 oz jig along the rock on the dam, beside every dock post, and through any tree in the water. In a pond a jig will not get you the most bites, but it often gets you the biggest fish of the day.
Color: keep it simple
Green pumpkin in clear water. Black and blue in stained water and low light. Brown with a little orange around rock, where crawfish live. Match the trailer to the skirt.
Common mistakes and the fix
- Jig too heavy. It crashes into the bottom and wedges in rocks. Use the lightest jig that lets you feel the bottom.
- Soft hook set. Reel down and swing hard. This is the most common reason for losing fish on a jig.
- Not watching the line. Half the bites are on the fall. If the line jumps or stops early, set the hook.
- Trailer on crooked. The jig spins and falls badly. Take it off and thread it on straight.
- Fishing too fast. A jig is a slow lure. Give it time on the bottom.
- Weed guard too stiff. If you feel bites and miss them, thin the guard by trimming out a few fibers.
Watch it done
Video: How to fish Jigs 101 – Everything you need know about fishing jigs for big bass, by Scott Martin on YouTube.
Common questions
What size jig should I start with?
3/8 oz. It is light enough for shallow water and heavy enough to feel down to about 12 feet.
What is the best trailer?
A soft plastic craw about 3 to 4 inches long is the standard. Its claws flap as the jig falls. Use a paddle-tail swimbait when you want to swim the jig.
Why do jigs have a reputation for big fish?
A jig is a bulky mouthful fished slowly in and around cover, which is where larger bass spend their time. It gets fewer bites than a small worm, and a better average size.
Should I trim the skirt?
Only if you want a smaller, more compact jig. Trim it level with the bend of the hook. Many anglers fish them as they come.
Keep learning
General guidance, not a guarantee of a catch. Follow state fishing regulations and your host’s lake rules. Sizes and line weights are common starting points used by bass anglers; adjust for your water.
